Six Steps to Planting and Watering a New Lawn Started From Seed

Have you ever planted a new lawn only to be disappointed in how it grew in? What went wrong? Watering a new lawn is completely different from how an existing lawn is watered. In fact, proper irrigation becomes one of the most important elements after the seeding is complete.

Here’s why. Grass seed must have sustained moisture to germinate. Germination times vary with seed types, but most lawn seed will germinate within 5 to 21 days. The best way of keeping the seed moist is by lightly sprinkling the seeded area of the lawn at least two to three times a day. Care must be taken to ensure the soil doesn’t dry out. The seeds could perish if they are allowed to dry once the seed begins the process of germinating. Your lawn may require more frequent watering depending on the soil type, weather, temperature, or wind.

Remember, the best time for planting cool season grasses is in the fall and warm season grasses are best planted in the spring.

Step 1: Prepare the soil to be seeded. If overseeding an existing lawn, cut the grass low and remove the clipping before seeding. If planting grass seed on bare soil or in sparse grass, loosen the top half inch soil with a steel rake so the seed can be raked in after spreading. You might include a “starter” fertilizer, if needed, based on the results of a soil test. It can be applied before or after seeding. Starter fertilizers contain higher amounts of phosphorus (middle number on a fertilizer bag) than regular fertilizer.

Step 2: Spread and rake the seed into the soil so it is lightly covered. Use the heavy rate listed on the bag when planting grass seed in bare soil and lighter rates when overseeding established lawns. Most seed can be spread using a rotary or drop fertilizer spreader. Check the bag to see how deep your seed should be. Some seed, such as buffalo grass seed, should be as deep as 1 inch, while most other seed should be raked in so it is no more than one quarter to one half inch deep.

Step 3: Irrigate the soil daily, at least twice a day, but possibly more. Try not to let the soil completely dry out. If your seed is planted in bare soil, do not to soak or flood your lawn. When watering a new lawn, use just enough water to keep the soil moist at seed depth. Standing water or prolonged heavy rain could ruin the seed or possibly wash the seed away.

If overseeding a lawn where you have established grass, be sure to keep the soil moist by watering lightly twice a day. Occasional deep watering is okay to maintain grass health. The existing grass will help keep the seed in place, shade the soil, and slow evaporation.

Step 4: Once the seed has sprouted continue watering lightly, but allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. At the seedling stage, it is even more critical not to repeatedly saturate the soil. Persistently wet soil can lead to serious root diseases, such as Pythium Blight, that cause the roots to die and rot.

Step 5: After the grass has reached a couple inches in height cut back on water to once every three days, depending on the temperature. Tiny seedlings can burn if the temperature spikes and the soil heats up too much.

Step 6: Once the grass is near cutting height begin watering deeply, but less often, so the soil is wet to a depth of four inches. Don’t water again until the grass begins to show signs of stress. This trains the roots to grow deeper into the soil to reach available water and nutrients.

An additional hint: If you need to add soil or organic matter to the lawn, do it before planting your grass seed. It will prevent you from smothering the seed and allows you to lightly rake the seed in. Lawn watering should immediately follow seeding. These basics in planting and watering a new lawn should help you get your new lawn established. Be sure to check out Lawn Care Academy using the link below. It is packed with helpful advice for all your lawn care needs.

Author Information: Russ James has spent many years in the professional turf and arboricultural industry. Now semi-retired, he shares his knowledge of turf science through his educational website, Lawn Care Academy. If you would like more information or have other lawn care difficulties, please go to http://www.lawn-care-academy.com.

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